Self Edge x Flat Head x RingRing = SEXFHXRR10
For the second Self Edge collaboration with Flat Head and our tenth collaboration in total we decided to take a bit of a different turn in regards to the design details of the jean. We've partnered up a good friend which goes by the name of RingRing to design the jean together, a process which took multiple meetings over a two year period. We can't go into who this RingRing person actually is, let's just say his knowledge of denim, indigo, textiles, and clothing in general go back to a thirty year period of studying and working in the industry.
We brought in some different influences on this collaboration for the design details such as a slim belt loops with selvedge accents on the inside, sloped front pockets, turn of the century Levi's style watch (coin) pocket with peak-a-boo selvedge, and curved back pockets. Many of these details were difficult to implement on a jean with this type of denim, or any denim for that matter.
We constructed the top block of the jean in a completely new way, the stitch patterns are unlike any other jean we've seen and there's 7 different stitch counts on the top block alone. Things like the thin selvedge belt loops were hand folded and sewn one by one by hand, a very uncommon production procedure since the 1920's most machines had folding attachments. The rear pockets had to be steamed and pulled by hand repeatedly so they'd retain a certain shape so that they wouldn't crease once sewn onto the pant body. Most of the jean is dual needle stitched but looks like a single stitch jean, yet the front pockets are stitched with a single-needle machine freehand where the stitch then goes up and into the waistband and turns into the same stitch that holds the waistband onto the jean legs and yoke.
The denim we used is a left hand twill fabric which was woven in a very small run for us in Okayama, Japan. LHT means the cotton is spun in the opposite direction of the more common right hand twill denim that you see on 99% of jeans. With the way the cotton is spun into yarn the ends of the fibers are laid down in such a way where once the yarn is pulled taut less fiber ends are visible and also felt, giving LHT denim a softer hand-feel. Left hand twill denim also results in a softer fabric over time and the leg twist that you're used to goes to the opposite direction of right hand twill denim. The yarn is pure indigo dyed, there is no sulfur top or bottom and no pigment dyes were used. The fabric looks very slick when new but opens up once soaked or washed, from a few feet away it may look like a broken twill denim but it's just the reflection of the weave making it seem that way, the grain actually moves up and to the left (as opposed to up and to the right on the more common RHT denim).
Asking Flat Head to produce a jean like this, while adding in their touches and thoughts, wasn't an easy task. They've never ventured far from the standard 5-Pocket jean design and this definitely opened up new concerns and ideas in relation to producing a non-standard jean for them. These are limited to only 140 pairs between all three Self Edge stores and the online store.
Check our online store for more information on this jean, a complete specification list, measurements, and hi-res photos.
Sidney Lo wearing the SEXFHXRR10 Jean